How to do a top quality interior paint job
Achieving a long-lasting and beautiful interior paint job isn't
rocket science; all you have to do is follow a few simple rules
for best results. These rules work well for either flat wall
paint, gloss, or semi-gloss. Please read the following article
on how to do a quality interior paint job.
In these days of ever-increasing costs to maintain your home,
your home improvement budget should be well spent by asking
pertinent questions. The last line more than applies when it
comes to painting, the reason: most freshly painted structures
look good, but it is further down the road - with the passage of
time and the changing of the seasons - that problems will show
up. Of course, at that point it's usually far too late! Stay on
top of the game and save money - and frustration - by asking
your painter these 10 simple questions.
Call us today for a free estimate. We will come to your home and
carefully evaluate the condition of your paint and offer expert
solutions. Our phone number is (626)
488 6885
Do this for a top quality interior paint job
(1). Remember to cover all floors with drop cloths, either the
canvas type or you may use the disposable plastic drops. This is
one area where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
(2). The first thing you want to do after you've got the floor
covered is to start the preparation of the surfaces to be
painted. Grab some 80 to 150 grit sandpaper and sand all your
walls and woodwork making sure to get a smooth finish. For super
fine finishes you should consider using higher numbered (finer)
grits. If preparing for varnishing you can also use various
grades of steel wool.
(3). Up next is the filling of cracks and holes. For woodwork
you may use a good brand of spackling paste; you might have to
fill the holes and cracks more than once. You should build up
the repair are to then be able to sand it down to a level
finish. NOTE: Do not use the old style oil based painter's putty
unless you are using an oil based finish paint, since the oil in
the putty may resurface when using water based paint. For walls
you may use either plaster patch or spackling, depending on the
material.
(4). OK, start to caulk all your wood joints, corners, and
seams. Take a caulking gun and lay down a good even bead, using
only as much as you need to. It's best to hold a wet rag in one
hand and gently wet and clean the tip of your index finger as
you smooth out the caulk bead. Unless you use a clean rag,
caulking can leave your hands in big mess!
(5). Once your caulking is done you are ready to proceed with
priming. Prime over all surfaces that have raw wood, spackling,
or painter's putty with a good interior primer, such as KILZ.
Once you are done with the woodwork, continue priming any raw
spackled repaired wall areas with the same primer.
(6). Now, just before you are ready to begin painting, remember
that dust is your enemy! Let me say it again: DUST IS YOUR
ENEMY! Take the time to sweep and dust off all areas to be
painted, I've even gone as far as to take a vacuum and tack
cloth to all my work! Make sure there is no dust or debris that
will get into your painted areas.
(7). Paint the wall areas first being very careful not to spill
any paint. The baseboards are an area of constant concern
because the wall paint will splatter them from the roller's back
stroke. Take masking tape and run it along the length of the
baseboard tops, to protect them from roller splatter
(8). Last, but not least, paint your woodwork starting from the
top to the bottom. Do your crown moldings, windows and sashes,
chair rails, then the doors and frames. Finally, paint your
baseboards making sure to cut a clean and straight line...just
take your time. Presto...you are done!
Copyright D. Aloy
The 10 things you should ask your painter
(2). How much and what type of preparation are you going to do? Ask him if he is going to wash, sand, and prime your dwelling before he paints. If exterior, will he power wash if needed?
(3). How much do you thin the paint? Do you thin only for workability and coverage (this is OK), or do you thin to extend the paint and save money, say, to turn 10 gallons of paint into 15? (not OK)
(4). Will you completely prime all the surfaces that have oil based paint, before painting them with water-based paint? The reason for this question is that water based paint doesn't adhere when installed directly on top of oil based paint, as in a kitchen, bathroom, or woodwork previously painted with oil based paint.
(5). Have him show you the areas that he will caulk. Why is this important? Because all wood joints and corners should be caulked to keep moisture and weathering out, and to help seal your home to minimize your energy costs.
(6). Again, ask him to show you what areas he would patch to fill holes and cracks. If you are not satisfied with his explanation, walk him around and show him all the areas you want patched. Grab some masking tape and tack it to any areas that need patching.
(7). Show him an area that has a hole or crack that needs patching - but that gets wet when it rains - and ask him what material he's going to use to repair the hole? If he says spackling, get another painter. Bondo is the repair material of choice when areas are exposed to rain, because it will hold up to the humidity. Spackling will suck in moisture and swell, bursting through the paint.
(8). If an exterior paint job, ask him if he's going to trench your foundation and clean, seal and repair about 4 inches under the soil line?
(9). Show him any areas with mildew and ask him how is he going to treat those areas? The best treatment is a diluted mixture of household bleach followed by a good rinsing.
(10). Ask him where he is going to setup his shop area while he works in your home, and what he will do to protect the area? Is he going to use plastic sheeting under his drop cloths? Will he lay down drop cloths between the house and his work area? All the above is very important since you want the area clean once he leaves.
Copyright D. Aloy